Hiva Oa - Atuona bay walk
Next day we go explore. Hiva Hoa boasts 2 famous graves, Gauguin was buried there so did Jacques Brel less known possibly than the painter, the Belgian singer still has a strong following if the tributes left on his graves are a measure of his popularity over 40 years after his death. Gauguin's house has been reconstructed in situ, right by the beach and a little museum is dedicated to him. None of the paintings are originals but to my eyes at least they are good reproductions (and there is a bit of a tutorial on taking a master which I found interesting). They span the entire career of the painter, not only his Marquesas and Tahiti period. I do like Gauguin, the colours and the features of the vahines are to say the least arresting. The houses, are in a very nice garden a stone throw from the beach. It is a beautiful place and you can see how an old man close to death would chose this place to die.
The Jacques Brel exhibition is somewhat sparse. He sailed in the Marquesas at the end of his life, been diagnosed with cancer, he was looking for peace and quiet, he found beauty and privacy. Most islanders have a story to tell about him, he was extremely popular with the local for his kindness and for always wanting to help others. He had his private plane which he flew himself at the disposition of the islanders for any emergency. And that is all that is left to show, his plane in a middle of a hanger, a few posters and photos around the walls and his most famous songs blaring out in that huge space. Next stop we climb up the road to the little cemetery where he lays. Two rows below Gauguin an unassuming grave but the tributes overflow the space allocated. I suspect someone is clearing them up at regular intervals, can't see anything older than 5 years old....he's been gone for at least 40! In comparison, Gauguin's grave is bare, except for a fresh flower and a tiny drawing in a plastic sleeve. The view from up here is breathtaking, ocean on one side, towering mountains on the other.i climb to the top of the cemetery, all 3 levels of it. Some of the graves are very old, but unfortunately dates and names are long gone. Won't get my history lesson here.