Martinique – Shore Leave


The whole week was a whirlwind of activities. We were fed, watered, chauffeured, organised and given the opportunity to shower every day. We even had some stuff laundered at the villa. What a treat! It was nice to have shore leave and sit around the swimming pool catching up with news. Ian made the most of it and completely relaxed (i.e took every opportunity to snoozette anywhere). He had scrapped his leg and it was not healing properly despite his effort a keeping it clean.

We took the little ferry to Fort de France and had a few hours wandering the streets. It felt so comfortable and clean. Boulangeries at every corner and loads of nice boutiques, even the Galleries Lafayette are there. All this housed in colonial architecture, very pleasing to the eye. Loads of people around but it doesn’t feel crowded. The market was colourful and delightful.

Having the car with Jean Charles as our chauffeur and Carole as our navigator was bliss. We were taken on guided visits to the south of the island all the way to la Pointe des Salines, stopping off along the way to various view points. The most spectacular, Diamond island was shining in the sunshine in the middle of a sparkling blue sea. Highlight of the day, finally managing to set up the hammocks on the beach, in the welcome shade of some trees, tasting the homemade glace coco and just chilling.

The next expedition to Ajoupa Bouillon and the gorges de la falaise was so exhilarating. We set off early and the drive up the pitons du Carbet all the way to the foot of the Montagne Pele was spectacular. We had noticed from the boat that the mountains were mostly covered in clouds every day, and sure enough, we were soon driving in these clouds. Nevertheless the scenery was fantastic and the rain forest stunning. I had never done canyoning before and I was not sure what to expect. So when we turned up at the gorges to start our steep descent into the gorge in swimming costume and trainers, we were all very excited. And sure enough this was just brilliant fun: walking in the rocky bed of the river, in some places quite deep and fast, holding on ropes and climbing ladders. The waterfall at the end of the walk/swim/crawl over boulders must have been over 10m high and the amount of water coming down was strong enough to make your skin and bones hurt when you stepped underneath it but what a great feeling! We had a ball!

No holiday is complete without a nice meal at a nice restaurant and once again, Carole came up trump. Although we had to drive across the island to the Atlantic side to the Caravelle, it was well worth the trip. Perched above the sea with a stunning view, we had a fantastic meal. We had to have a little lie down on the beach afterwards, I blame the rum punch.

Another day, another expedition. Given that the Garagnanis will only be on board Mr X for 2 nights, we will not be able to take them to the Atlantic side of Martinique which is a maze of islets and sand banks, protected by reefs but with big rollers to overcome. So there we are trying to find our way to someone’s house somewhere in le Francois. He has a yole (one of these boat that most fishermen use around here) and he will take us to the edge of the reef and show us some islets on the way.

After numerous phone calls to get direction, we finally reach his back yard which happens to be a quiet little bay with a small pontoon. And off we go at top speed, skimming the waves and holding on for dear life. It was great! Although it is beautiful, we’ll probably not see this side of the island with Mr X. We have been warned that navigation is tricky and dangerous (the Doyle’s guide is not recommending it). Don’t think we want to go aground.  We had a swim in the shallows, the water is so clear it is unbelievable. Our captain abandoned us on a small island for a few hours, snorkelling is ok, but the best bit is the picnic at the top of the hill with a stunning view from the hammock. The boat came back too soon; we could have stayed there much longer. This is supposed to be a top tourist spot, but even in peak holiday time it is deserted.