Pointe a Pitre 23rd April to 24th April
So the engine refuses to cough now for the last 2 days, even when stationary… we went to have a chat with Aline at GMD services. As she said it is going to be tricky for Bernard to diagnostic the problem if it is not manifesting itself at the moment…. Still, since we are here, we go and see the dentist for Ian’s broken tooth, again not a success. The nice young man (dentists are now joining the ranks of bankers and policemen, looking far too young!) informs us that the tooth needs a crown or a “crone” as he puts it, which make Ian laugh, he has one of these already. At best the whole thing would take 3/4 weeks. Good news is the break on a tooth with a partial crown is clean and being desensitised it will not hurt. Determined to make the most of this unscheduled visit to PP, we go shopping and stock up on food stuff.
Next morning we are off back to Marie Galante, only 20 miles and the wind about on the nose but we managed to sail nearly all the way. We got to Grand Bourg mid-afternoon. We always knew that the harbour itself would not be able to accommodate Mr X, being too small and too shallow, and with 4 ferries a day, it would not be so quiet. The anchorage just outside of the harbour is quite small and very close to the shore, with waves crashing on the coast. The swell is big despite the coral reef and we are rolling, not so comfortable. We have gotten used to quiet nights at anchor and we are reminded of how disturbing it is to be at a rolly anchor. Not much sleep to be had.
Marie Galante 5th April – 8th April Grand Bourg
Next day we are up early and explore Grand Bourg before we set off to visit the old Murat sugar cane factory. There is a nice hiking trail and the walk takes us along the seashore with views of Dominica and fabulous shades of blue sea, then across the agricultural landscape. Acres of sugar cane, bananas fields, and plenty of pastures with huge cows and oxen, without forgetting pigs and chickens in every farm yards. The “habitation Murat” is in a beautiful setting, on top of a hill, overlooking the sea. The old masters house is now a small museum and the whole site is well presented and educational with information panels dotted around. The ruins are very atmospheric with a huge tree framing the tall brick chimney. The quarry stone windmill is very well preserved too.
We spent an hour in the museum, thanks to a very talkative curator and a lack of visitors. As per usual we ended up talking about all sorts of things, from Marie Galante culture, cemeteries to the economic situation in Guadeloupe and the upcoming French elections. A lovely walled herb garden illustrate the various medicinal use of local plants. All in all, an enjoyable visit made even more special by the nice curator.
There is a circular trail from the “habitation Murat” which take up all of our afternoon. This takes us through pastures and farms and down a wooded valley. The path is well defined and picturesque. We particularly enjoy the woods, the trail follows a dry river bed between high hills. The floor of the valley is covered in crackling leaves and huge greenish boulders encased in the roots of the fortress trees. All this dappled by the sunshine is looking like the enchanted forest. The air is full of bird songs and buzzing of insects. And the smells of warm earth warm cane and trees is really pleasant. We end up back on farm land, I have not seen so many people working in fields for a long time, the sugar cane is high and the hills resonate with the murmur of conversation. It take us a little while to realise that people are actually cutting the cane by hand and chatting as they work. The swaying of the cane and the sound of the machetes gives away their position in the sea of cane. Obviously I want to have a go at it… I just can’t imagine how hard this work can be, I bet lifting the machete alone would be an effort. What I need is a work party by the road and then I can ask if I can try… I have hardly voiced this thought to much hilarity from Ian that we do come across a group of people cutting cane by the road. Amongst them a young lady seemingly holding her own against the men, without breaking a sweat. To my surprise when I express the wish to have a go, she smiled and handed over the machete. A few directives and there I am cutting canes, not very efficiently, the girl can do it in just 2 seep of the blade, it takes me twice as many but all the same I am thrilled. The machete is not so heavy and the cane not so tough, although my hands soon itch, not sure if the cane itself or something else irritating my skin. We learn that most of the cane on the island are cut by hand, the parcels of land are small and mainly difficult to access for the machines. Only on the flat land by the sea these can be used. As we stand there chatting, a bullock cart appears rattling on the road. Two magnificent oxen are pulling a full load of cane, piled high up. We’ve seen enough bullocks and cart all around, idle in fields, it is nice to see them in action. The driver is not happy, he actually tells me off for taking picture of the ox without asking permission, so I don’t ask him if I can drive! Shame I would have like that too!