Les Saintes March 23rd 2017
We found another gem. Even the approach to this cluster of islands held a promise of wonderful blue seas and scenery. The crossing from Dominica was a fast and exhilarating one, Mr X got into its stride and we were soon bombing along averaging over 7 knots with peaks at 8 knots which we had not done since our Atlantic crossing. The waves were not so high in the channel and apart from a sharp shower when we left Portsmouth, we had sunshine all the way. Brilliant passage, one of the most enjoyable so far. The islands scattered to the south of Haute Terre, the main hub, are all so different, with wild and jagged coastlines. Most of them are uninhabited and look difficult to access, hardly any safe beaches. The first anchorage we come across is by the Pain de Sucre, with stunning rock formation, like pillars of stones supporting the rounded green roof of the mountain. There is a buoy, only one available, but given that we need to check in The Bourg des Saintes, we opt to get a bit closer; it would be a long dinghy ride and an even longer walk to get there. The Haute Terre bay is beautiful, surrounded with little wooded hills, not very high but arranged pleasingly around the most dazzling blue sea. We have not seen this kind of variation in blues since Tobago Cays; it goes from the deep indigo blue to the watery azure and many shades in between. The little village nestles at the bottom, by the little beach of white sand. It is just enchanting and our view from the anchorage is a delight, blue sea, white sand, green hills and the red tin roofs dotted around. The first few days are a bit windy even in the bay. Not much shelter really, guess the hills are not high enough. There is a tiny beach in rowing distance at the bottom of the “Tete Rouge” hill nearest to us and a road leads us to the village, only 10 mn away. We can’t resist climbing to the top of “Tete Rouge”, which is an old fort, and is fairly well preserved. Goats are roaming freely around the trees and bushes. They are very curious and tame. They are quite happy being stroked and definitely enjoy being petted, Ian is loving it as much as they are, especially when they start behaving like dogs and nuzzle you when you stop stroking them.
The road leading to the Bourg is really picturesque, colourful quaint little houses on both sides with the trademark wooden shutters. A few restaurants with sea views, very low key, a few little shop selling beachwear and a little covered market with a few fruits and vegetables and a boulangerie or two. We reach the place de la mairie with its little shaded square in front. The church is in the corner, its wooden spire contrasting with the stone building. The main pedestrian street leads to the main square, a golden Marianne, from the top of her golden pillar surveys the arrivals and departures of the many ferries from Guadeloupe. The place is busy with tourists but still very pleasant with all the shops, bar and restaurants around. The ice cream shop is doing a roaring trade, so are the ladies selling the “Tourments d’Amour” from their baskets, little cakes filled with guava, pineapples or coco. I did think of Carole, the ice creams are outstanding and the choice of flavours so vast that we had to return again and again for the next week to ensure we tasted most of them.
The road crossed the whole of the village, taking in schools, infant and primary, as well as the old stone library. At the end of the village, a steep road affords fabulous views of the bay below before going back down to another pretty little street lined with more quaint houses. At the bottom a fishing boats on the beach, nets stretched between palm trees and all the paraphernalia of fishing things makes for a nice picture. The sea is crystal clear, it is amazing. There are practically no cars, everyone uses either scooters or electric golfettes which is great.
The next day we are up early and a turtle comes to say hello while we are having breakfast. We climb to the Fort Bonaparte; again the views are stunning all around. At the top we are greeted with a stern military structure all square made of grey stones. Above the building, the battlements have been planted with cacti and a few trees give shelter to the many iguanas basking in the sun. The building houses a museum in which we spent 2 hours roaming its many rooms. There is plenty of history in les Saintes, naval mainly with a major skirmish between the French and the English, depicted in great details with models of ships and dioramas of battle positions. Given that the French lost this particular battle and suffered a major blow when their flagship was taken, it is amazing that most of the museum is taken over by this story. Brilliantly done, I loved the old fashion displays, so did Ian who took great pleasure in making me translate the narrative of the battle.
From the fort we reached Marigot bay another stunning bay with glittering seas, deserted apart from a 3 masted ship. Our head still full of the stories, it was just like being back in time. We had a picnic on the beach enjoying the view. The beach of Pompierre is supposed to be the best beach in les Saintes and it can be reached over the morne Morel, good leg stretcher in the shade and well worth the climb. Pompierre has my vote, definitely the best beach we have come across for a while. White sand, palm trees, blue crystal clear sea, snorkelling to be had from the beach, not crowded. The hills behind it resonate with goats bleating and you must mind your lunch bag, they are not scared. There are iguanas and chickens, humming birds and doves. Perfect spot for hanging the hammocks. Over the next two days, we explored every trail on the island, visited every beach and climbed all the hills we could including the chameau. We found the graveyard, liked the old burials where the mound of hearth is contained with conch shells with a simple cross.
Feeling that we now had walked the island from top to bottom, and from east to west, we then spent the next 4 days doing on our beach and enjoyed every minute of it. We got into our little routine: breakfast on deck watching the turtle, row to the beach, chat to the nice couple who were there every day, feed the goats with fallen flowers, walk through the village, picking up accra and cakes for lunch, then meandering up and down hills until we reach the beach, set up the hammocks, have a swim or two, have lunch, more swim, read, listen to the French radio or just daydream. Around 4.30pm pack up and walk back to the village, have an ice cream either in the main square or by the church, pick up a few groceries on the way, feed the goats (especially the one with the eyebrows), back to the beach to get the dinghy, another 15 mn blah blah with the nice couple who are now packing up and then row to the boat in time for the sunset over the bay.
We did meet a few people, our nice retired people on the beach with whom we exchanged pleasantries twice a day, the owners of the restaurant “Douceur des iles” back from a shopping trip to Guadeloupe, he was loaded with lettuces, tomatoes and cucumbers he had picked up in a farm. He proceeded to explain the trials and tribulations of a small restaurant in les Saintes, whilst his wife was ferrying the produces on her scooter… took her 3 trips so plenty time to chat. We met a American couple, sailors, Norma and Mike on …Loon at the bottom of a trail; and we got talking about our respective trips. Always good to compare notes,
We also met a nice couple, Corinne & Xavier on the beach and we kept bumping into them in town, so went for a drink and we invited them back for dinner aboard. We had a great time, good company, both were delightful and it was nice to talk about other thing than sailing although Xavier was quite enthusiastic and it would not surprise me if he was to try the sailing thing for himself sometime.
All in all, we had a fantastic time in les Saintes, very relax and beautiful place. It really feels like we have explored every nooks and cranny on Terre Haute, we will need to come back to check out Terre d’en Bas and the rest of the islands. We definitely want an excuse to return!
Next stop Guadeloupe…