Dominica – Portsmouth


The sail up the coast of Dominica is yet again very wet. Wind is a bit fickle and it is really up and down. We did see some dolphins and the island is truly beautiful from the sea, loads of rainbows.
Of course when we arrived in Portsmouth bay, it just pours down and the whole bay disappear into a watery nothing, that’s going to be interesting to find a spot to anchor. The wind is also quite strong so we do a few laps weaving around other vessels trying to make sure that we have enough room. We did attempt to anchor but with the wind being so strong we give in and get a mooring buoy. Insurance for quieter nights we hope. Not that it always works out this way!
Pepper is in the bay and they come to tell us that they are going on a tour of the Indian River next morning and would we like to join them. We jump at the chance, it will be nice to go and explore with them. And sure enough we had a great time. Alexis, the guide, comes to pick us up at 8am, along with Hattie & Phil, Steve & Joanny and Jean & Yolene (Caffe Latte). We had a fun ride, Alexis running commentary is informative and full of humour. The swamp is really eerie and there is no one around, just the birds, land crabs and lizards. The river is shallow and murky due to the rain. But the roots of the trees makes it a fantastical place, each tree and intricate roots patterns reflected in the mirror like water. It is very special. The tour ends up in a beautiful garden (with a bar attached!) and Alexis gives us a horticultural lesson before making us taste some ganja rum… medicinal purposes!
I watch him making a bird out of a leaf…fascinating…
No outboard is allowed in the Indian River, so Alexis is half rowing, half punting us around. I am dying to try it and good naturedly he lets me, guess he knows how hard it is and sure enough, it is okay-ish in a straight line, although the wooden oars are so heavy I can hardly lift them. When we need to make a U-turn that is it, I get stuck and he has to take over. Still, that was fun!
We explore the village in the afternoon, again everyone is very nice. We follow our noses and found a bakery selling cake…well deserved… I think we are addicted!

Ian has been pumping Jean for some info on water maker & electricity saving device to be installed for the fridge. Jean kindly invites us on board Caffee Latte so he can show us. What a fabulous boat… I want one!

Still keen for more walking with us, we meet up with Jean & Yolene and Matthew in the afternoon for another walk. Not so far this time just up the Cabrit fort complex we can see from Mr X. What a difference a day makes. The ground is bone dry and the walk is extremely pleasant. There is plenty old crumbling buildings around in the woods and very nicely restored one, complete with old canons. Ian is enjoying the chat with Matthew, an Englishman living in Canada. And I am enjoying the chat with Yolene and Jean in that beautifully accented Canadian French. Again loads of stories are told. We end up in Madiba on the beach for a spot of rum and more blah blah. Fascinating stuff about language and culture.  The Purple Turtle is hosting a wedding tonight. We have watched the preparation all day yesterday and although we expect a big wedding, we do not expect the white limo on the road. Bride is beautiful, loads of kids running around. Back on Mr X, it is just as if we were guests too, we can hear all the speeches and the music late into the night. Interesting stuff.  Another brilliant day.